Pelion, the mountain of the Centaurs

Pelion... the mountain of Centaurs! Another area of my country which is famous for its natural beauty and it has been a popular tourist destination. I travelled in Pelion to celebrate the entrance of 2008 in my life. When you seek the happiness and beauty in your life you must visit places like Pelion. They offer you part of their beauty filling your heart with warm feelings and they calm your mind.

Pelion, land of the legendary Centaurs, the site chosen by the ancient gods for their weddings and celebrations, rises in lush magnificence to the northeast of Volos . It was here that the centaur Chiron, the wise teacher of demigods and heroes, gave his pupils daily instruction in the proper care of body and soul. Here, as well, the first beauty contest took place between Thetis and Eris. Many-leaved Pelion was an inspiration to Homer, Pindar, and Euripides but also to the modern popular muse who sung of the unquenchable desire of the Greek people for freedom. Volos was the city I had chosen to stay and I organized my explorations from there every morning in order to learn a part of Pelion with its villages. Volos is the capital city of the prefecture of Magnesia and the major commercial and industrial centre of Thessalia. It is a lively city that has developed a remarkable tourist infrastructure. Some of the most interesting places to visit in Volos are the flea market and the old city (Palea) with quite a few neoclassic buildings. The distinctive traditional architecture of the old houses with their narrow windows and decorated walls, stone stairways and roofs of grey or greeny slate; the Byzantine churches with wonderful wall paintings and icon screens; the winding cobbled paths, sculpted fountains, courtyards redolent of basil and gardenia; squares paved with huge flag stones where the cheerful bubbling of a little brook is never absent -are all typical features of a Pelion village. At the slopes of Pelion , this devine shadowy mountain, Makrinitsa (17 km., alt. 750 m.) is resting sluggishly. It's a major village well known for its panoramic view to Pagasitikos Gulf and Volos , its unique architectural features, its magnificent mansions and houses, its churches, water fountains and paths. Built amphitheatrically up the side of the mountain, it offers a splendid view of the gulf below. The flag stone lanes link its unique buildings, which because of the steep slope are three storeys on one side and only one on the other. The higher facade is adorned with the wooden balconies so typical of Pelion. Some of these old houses have been restored by the Greek National Tourism Organization and are operated as guest houses under its supervision.

The eye is overwhelmed by the village's unique position on the mountain right above the city. Makrinitsa has a well-earned second name: The Balcony of Pelion, for the visitor of its main square will be rewarded with a panoramic view of the city spreading out below at a depth of 600 meters.

Makrinitsa was built between 1204 and 1215 by the Byzantine family of Malliasinon. This small settlement, that appeared in the first centuries of Ottomans possession at the area, developed economic activities in both the Balkans and Europe by cultivating silkworms and working out leather. In 1878, Makrinitsa plays a leading role in the Revolution against the Turks. At the same time, Margarita Basdeki - chief of troops - excels for her courage in fight. After the liberation from the Turks, Makrinitsa turns to be the largest municipality in the area in extent, population and activities. By the end of the 2nd World war Makrinitsa's rural character changes thanks to tourism that opened new horizons for its inhabitants.

Continuing the ascent up the slope of the mountain, after Anakasia the road leads to Portaria (13 km., alt. 600 m.), a lovely summer resort with abundant crystalline water and a number of hotels. What is unique here is the houses, its windows and its doors which are painted beautifully with a variety of colors with beautifully colored edges.

When you visit Pelio don't forget to taste the local delicacies, bean soup and "spetzofai" - a spicy concoction of sausages and peppers- served in the traditional restaurants (" tavernakia"). You can try also the local speciality "tyropsomo" (cheese-bread) and "firikia", a kind of lady apple. In Hania in a cold day like the one I visited you will have the opportunity to enjoy another Greek delicacy... "Kokoretsi", a traditional Greek dish consisting mainly of seasoned lamb or goat offal. Recipes usually include chopped intestines, sweetbreads, hearts, lungs and/or kidneys, marinated in lemon, olive oil and oregano, and seasoned with salt and pepper.

Zigzagging up the mountainside past a series of stunning ridges, the main road climbs up to Hania (26 km., alt. 1200m.), which has become a winter sports centre thanks to the development of Agriolefkes , where there is a refuge, ski lifts, a big slope for experienced skiers and a separate area for beginners, along with all the comforts of a modern ski resort.

Hania is 26km from Volos and 13km from Portaria. Hania is actually the passage from the east to the west of Pelion. In the old days, travellers and traders used to stop for the night at the hostels in the village, and from this was derived the name Hania, which means hostels. During the summer, Hania is also very cool and not as hot as some of the coastal villages in Pelion. Here you can find rooms to let, taverns and restaurants.

Milies (28 km. from Volos, alt. 360 m.) one of the villages I visited and one of the most delightful larger villages of Pelion and an important cultural centre, as witnessed by the wealth of rare books and manuscripts in its library. Some of its traditional homes have been renovated to operate as guest houses. Milies also has a fine collection of folk art (local museum), while its little railway station - the end of the old Volos line - is particularly attractive. Just 3 kilometres further up the road you will find Vizitsa (32 km. from Volos , alt. 450 m.), a mountain village concealed among plane trees whose lovely Pelion-style towers and magnificent old mansions have led to its declaration as a landmark settlement protected from unseemly development. Some of the latter have been renovated and are run as guest houses. If you feel like forgetting your cares and troubles for a while, try a little of the potent local brew, "tsipouro".